While Electric Feathers designer Leana Zuniga made no concessions where her usual billowing shapes were concerned, her Fall offering was notably more lissome than collections past. Perhaps that’s owed in part to a couple of heavyweight influences. When presenting the pieces, Zuniga name-dropped Yohji Yamamoto (circa the eighties) and Isadora Duncan, both of who represent different sorts of lightness. Yamamoto could be spotted in a boxy, utilitarian, funnel-neck jacket and tool-belt-like vest, both in indigo-and-cream-checked raw silk (the latter tricked out with black plastic snap buckles that felt improbably charming). Duncan, meanwhile, came through in diaphanous numbers, like Electric Feathers’ signature Infinite Rope dress, which stunned in a blush double georgette. There was plenty of gossamer silk lamé, too. A gorgeous swingy ivory coat with poet sleeves and a chunky, striped silk belt was a true standout, and bore hints of the Ballets Russes around the edges.
Even at its most dialed-back, the label is going to be a hard sell for some women—for the body-conscious, for those who’d rather their clothing show off weeks’ worth of Pilates rather than double as an ensemble in which to do Pilates. But Zuniga comes by her aesthetic quirks so naturally, it’s hard to escape their pull. Fall boasts some of her most impressive fare yet, and with a boutique on Williamsburg’s South Side just opened? Things look bright for the brand.