The Petit Trianon was the starting point for Marchesa‘s Georgina Chapman this season. But although the duck-egg blue, blush pink, and hand-painted floral print were straight out of Marie Antoinette’s closet, there wasn’t a bustle or corset in sight. Chapman takes a more subtle approach to her pre-collections than she does to her runway shows. Whereas Fall, with its own riffs on the eighteenth century, was somewhat heavy-going, this felt soft and light. Embroideries, where they existed, were as understated as the collection’s color palette. Similarly, a short-in-front/long-in-back hem lent a ruffled organza number a delightful sense of ease.
Still, these weren’t sundresses made for lounging around among the wildflowers. (Marchesa’s contemporary-priced Voyage collection addresses daywear in a more thorough way.) Rather, they were event dresses from start to finish. There’s no bigger party than a wedding; Chapman’s strapless gown in pale blue tulle would make a ravishing choice for an unconventional bride.