Gucci‘s creative director, Frida Giannini, and Patrizio di Marco, the company’s president and CEO, welcomed the birth of their daughter, Greta, back in March. This did not seem to have influenced the Resort collection Giannini showed by appointment this week—until you started noticing that, cumulatively, there was a more relaxed sensibility in effect. Oversized tunics were paired up with wide-legged trousers and lightweight cashmere coats tied up like nightgowns.

If anything, the focus this time around was on rarefied materials applied to an essential travel checklist; what could be cozier than a hoodie in woven mink? And don’t leave home without your woven Lurex kimono gown, crystal-embroidered pajama set, or metallic laminated leather trench. The shimmer balanced out the slouch, but it ultimately functioned as a design sleight of hand; the real decadence was in the sense of undone-ness.

Giannini riffed on a wide range of references. It was easy enough to detect a Rio de Janeiro sunset in the hand-embroidered iridescent sequins, and day dresses printed with parasols, beach balls, and hearts looked like Jerry Hall 2.0. The horse bits were back on shoulder bags and stilettos alike; such house codes are as integral to the brand image as the glam sequin-embroidered dresses.

While there were few weak links in this generally confident collection, the jogging outfit in jumbo paisley was a less successful athletic upgrade than the warm-up jacket in ocher perforated suede. And what to make of the short-sleeve sweatshirt that read, “Stardust is a glittering superstar” in tiny studs? This was either a lost-in-translation expression or an obscure Bowie shout-out. (Gucci is currently sponsoring the David Bowie Is exhibition at London’s V&A Museum.) Much clearer was the version emblazoned with “Frida’s”—the first time Giannini’s name has appeared on any item since she arrived at the house in 2005. Now more than ever, this is Mamma Frida’s moment.
—Alex Veblen
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