All the theatrics that have amped up the entertainment value at previous Moncler Gamme Rouge shows were MIA today—no huskies, simulated weather, or nearly nude gymnasts. If you wanted, you could watch the light boards running the perimeter of the space that projected Koyaanisqatsi-style footage of urban and environmental scenes. But, with no disrespect to last year’s canine models, the clothes needed to resume their role as star players. And sure enough, Giambattista Valli’s three-part collection offered up the type of graphic and material dynamism (plus Pharrell-size fur hats) that will make any future polar vortex easier to endure.
On average, coats hovered around the knees, which were almost always clad in sport leggings, their cuffs sheer and ankle-baring. The mixing made all the difference; a champagne-hued Persian lamb coat ringed with a triple stripe of pylon-orange mink opened the show. Midway through, in the droll-meets-drab UPS uniform grouping, a crocodile front gave way to a Persian lamb back. A fuller A-line coat bifurcated a camo print up top with a raw-edged Persian lamb skirt. Speaking of which, the prints came from graffiti artist Maurizio Cannavacciuolo, whose drippy effects and text-image interplay counterbalanced the haute fabrications and will likely find an eager audience among men (who will finally be able to purchase the Gamme Rouge runway looks this fall).
Both men and women, though, will appreciate the all-purpose accessories, namely a croc card case dangling from a coat strap, baseball-beanie hybrid caps, and thick-soled slip-on sneakers. All three details might have gone unnoticed had you been distracted by a mise-en-scène.